New Ground-Up Multipitches in Ermioni – A Weekend with Dimitris Oikonomou

One unforgetable weekend the past month, despite the rainy forecast, I headed to Ermioni with my good friend Dimitris Oikonomou for what turned out to be an unforgettable climbing experience. Sometimes, all you need is motivation, good company, and a bit of stubbornness to turn a wet weekend into a productive adventure.

We spent two full days exploring the vertical potential of the area and managed to bolt two brand new multipitch routes—from the ground up. These are mixed trad routes, graded around French 5, making them a perfect option for beginner climbers and climbing schools looking for something more adventurous than a single-pitch crag.

Bolting ground-up is a very different process compared to rappelling in from the top. It means climbing the route as it is, on natural gear or sometimes even without protection, and placing bolts only when and where it's absolutely necessary—often from stances or while hanging from gear. It requires not only technical skill and good judgment, but also a strong mental game and clear vision of the line. The result is a route that flows naturally, respects the features of the rock, and maintains the spirit of traditional climbing. It's demanding, but deeply rewarding work.

The routes were established with respect for the natural rock, following clean and logical lines. We placed bolts only where necessary, leaving plenty of opportunities for natural gear placements, giving the climbs an authentic and educational character.

Stay tuned—detailed topos and information about the new routes will be published soon on Ermionida’s social media channels. We’re excited to share these climbs with the community and hope they will be enjoyed by many aspiring multipitch climbers in the years to come.

This whole project, like many others, was funded by the Frizzy Foundation—a foundation I am truly blessed to collaborate with as their local hero, entrusted with the maintenance and development of climbing in Greece.

More adventures ahead—see you on the rock!